[rookiedaddy]

Update 2 (2009-08-01): Olight M20 Comparison shots
Update 1: Outdoor shot

this is not a review, but rather my impression of the new EagleTac lights that I received today, so no runtime graph nor lux rating... but you do get to see some photos... will add outdoor shots once it gets dark... another 10 hours

First, the package:

yep... both Cool and Neutral White for T20C2 (the cool white version was provided by Philightsophy for my comparison, thanks man...) and T100C2 MKII.

Let's take a look at what's included in the T20C2 + RGB Kit

Nylon holster, spare O-rings, EagleTac Silicon Grease, GiTD switch boot, paracord lanyard, filter kit (red, green, blue, diffuser), and the light itself.

On to the parts that make up the flashlight

from left, head assembly, body, and tail-cap. notice the green pointer from the photo? this is where you unscrew to change the reflector and, in my case, clean the dirty lens...

here is what it looks like after disassembly

there is an o-ring at the thread and another at the lens (for shock absorbent?)

here is the head shot


and LED close-up


and another head shot from the other side


the tail-cap


the battery tube

notice how excessively lube is the tube? this is very common among all Eagletac lights I received so far. clean-up time...

inside view of the battery tube


now for some size comparisons

compare with some common battery sizes


compare with Oligh M20, from left, Cool White T20C2 (with tail-standing tail-cap), Neutral White T20C2, Olight M20 Premium R2

and their head shot


here are the two different reflector for T20C2


and here is the Cool White version tail-standing with diffuser


some shots of the cool filter kit. note that all these were taken under fluorescent lighting.





if you are using the filter kit, it's best to stick to the SMO reflector as it gives that extra throw, the diffuser is one of the best I've seen.

some UI problems that I encounter is the activation of the strobe from tail-cap actually interfere with momentary on function.
- good luck trying to send out S.O.S. signals as it activates strobe every alternate press (register within a second or two)
- if you activate strobe by "clicking" it, you need to double-click to get back to constant on ==> first click to off, second click to constant on

the mode switching is actually pretty cool as it ramps up or down, ramping works for twisting to get to low mode and reverse as well.

now on to T100C2...
a physical comparison of the original T100C2 and T100C2 MKII



notice the enhanced version of the bezel (circled in green)? EagleTac ain't no joking when they say they will strenghten the bezel.

this new version has a cooler tint, on general mode, it appears greenish while on high, it appears towards the blue side of the spectrum, compare to the slightly warmer tint of the original T100C2.

Update 1:
here goes some outdoor shots (all shots are taken using Canon S5 IS using f/3.2, Exp: 1 sec., ISO-100, distance from tree top, approx. 10 meters)

Olight M20 as control and comparison


T20C2 Cool White SMO Reflector


T20C2 Neutral White SMO Reflector


T10LC2 Neutral White OP Reflector for comparison with T20C2 Neutral White


Comparing SMO and OP Reflector of Cool White


T20C2 Cool White with Red Filter


T20C2 Cool White with Green Filter


T20C2 Cool White with Blue Filter


Without diffuser on left, with diffuser on right. I believe the diffuser is included in basic version too.


My RGB kit includes the OP reflector as goodies from Philightsophy, so saves me the headache to choose between SMO and OP. Tail-stand tail-cap is an optional accessory and can be use with T100C2.

And here we have shots from T100C2 Original vs Mark II


it may not be able to tell very clearly which among the T20C2, T100C2, T100C2MKII is the brightest if you put all these beam shots side-by-side, but using the highly acclaimed bio-technologically scientific method: Ceiling Bounce, the T20C2 does give out more brightness.

Update 2 (2009-08-01): Olight M20 Comparison shots

first, a comparison beam shot of M20 vs T20 (both using OP) -- M20 on left, T20C2 on right


all pictures posted below always have the Olight M20 Premium R2 on right, EagleTac T20C2 on left.
both lights head standing


tail-cap


inside view of the tail-cap

i much prefer the contact pin (or is it a cap) of the Olight M20, it's more battery friendly. Surefire, are you listening?

body tube


threading work at the tube (head position)

despite the square threading (?) on the EagleTac T20C2, Olight M20 still feels smoother.

body/battery tube view from tail end


and the tube view from head


the head assembly


the contact point inside the head

note that the new AW 2600 flat top doesn't work on EagleTac T20C2 unless you attach a small magnet either at the flashlight head contact or the battery positive end to make the contact.

the crenelated bezel


and here we have the battery magazine


and here's together with an earlier version of the battery magazine

the green circled shows the sanding work in the earlier version that came with T100C2, while the arrow points to the position where it has a larger diameter than the rest of the battery magazine tube. I believe it's basically the same tube where ealier version tries to sand it to make the whole tube diameter even (but failed), and the later just doesn't bother!!! FWIW, the earlier version of this battery tube can fit into Olight M20 snugly, while the newer version stuck at the cap gap area.

overall, the built quality of Olight M20 Premium R2 "feels" better, and that includes the bundled accessories, while EagleTac T20C2 offers "better value" with the included diffuser and RGB Kit. The availability of neutral white in T20C2 is just awesome imo.

perhaps a Full Stainless Steel version at the same price point will make it the ultimate EDC choice of all time and EagleTac really needs to "kill" the strobe "bug".