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07.06.2012, 13:15
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Увлеченный
Регистрация: 26.04.2011 Последняя активность: 10.11.2015 10:40 Адрес: Canada
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Rofis JR30 & ER12 (1xAA, XP-G R5) Review: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, VIDEO and more!
Warning: pic heavy, as usual.
   Rofis is a fairly new manufacturer. Their inaugural series was an innovative rotating angle-head design – the Jazz "Transformer" – originally in 1xCR123A (JR10) and 2xCR123A/1x18650 (JR20) formats. In this review, I will look at the new JR30, a 1xAA model Transformer (shown above). I will also look at their new budget offering, the two-stage 1xAA ER12 (shown below).   Reported Manufacturer Specifications: Rofis JR30
Rofis ER12
 JR30 packaging includes a good number of extras, the same as the JR10 & JR30. Along with the light, you get a decent quality holster, thin paracord-style wrist lanyard, extra o-rings and boot cover, stainless steel clip (attached), manual and warranty card. Sorry, I slipped the wrong manual in the pic above.   ER12 packaging is more basic - the box has a simple magnetic closing clasp, cut-out foam holding the light, a manual, caribiner-style clip ring, and one extra o-ring.  From left to right: Duracell AA NiMH; Rofis ER12, JR30; Nitecore EZAA; Zebralight SC51; Tiablo E2A; Thrunite 1A; 4Sevens Quark AA. JR 30:    From left to right: Duracell AA NiMH; Sunwayman L10A; Rofis JR30 ER12:  All dimensions are given with no batteries installed: Rofis ER12: Wright: 35.5g, Length: 96.2mm, Width (bezel): 18.6mm Rofis JR30: Weight: 76.2g, Length (max): 119.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.3mm Sunwayman V10A: Weight: 58.1g, Length 100.6mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm Sunwayman V11R with AA extender: Weight 59.70g, Length: 100.5mm, Width (bezel): 23.1mm Tiablo E2A: Weight: 45.7g, Length: 101.2mm, Width (bezel): 19.9mm Thrunite Neutron 1A: Weight: 60.4g, Length: 105.6mm, Width (bezel): 22.0mm Xeno E03:: Weight: 48.1g, Length 96.7mm, Width (bezel): 21.5mm Xtar WK25B: Weight 42.9g, Length: 102.3mm, Width (bezel): 22.5mm The JR10 is definitely larger than a typical 1xAA light, due to the rotating angle-head rotating mechanism. The ER12 is very slim for a 1xAA clicky light, but is still noticeably larger than the slim-lined twisty Nitecore EZAA. Rofis JR30: Weight: 76.2g, Length (max): 119.3mm (angled) 102.1mm, Width (bezel): 22.3mm Rofis JR10: Weight 75.0g, Length (max): 110.6mm (angled): 92.9mm, Width (bezel): 24.8mm Rofis JR20: Weight 907.g, Length (max): 144.4mm (angled): 136.6mm, Width (bezel): 24.8mm As you can see above, the JR30 has a narrower width than the earlier JR10/20 (which had to be wider to accommodate the thicker CR123A/18650-sized cells). Overall length is intermediate, as you would expect. JR30:       The build of JR30 is very similar to the earlier JR10/20 – but there are a few notable differences. As before, the build is fairly robust, and the light has a very solid feel. The body wall thickness seems similar to before – but the overall body width is narrower, due to the need to only support 1xAA batteries. The JR30 also has significant knurling, of good aggressiveness (for good grip). However, the knurling has a finer pattern now, and is not quite as deeply cut compared to the earlier JR10/20. Anodizing remains a matte black, and seems of good quality (i.e. no dings or scratches on my samples). Labels are bright white against the black background, as before. One noticeable change internally - there is no longer a spring in the head, and the reverse polarity ring would prevent you from using flat-top cells. But since the JR30 is only rated for standard AA batteries, this shouldn't be an issue. Also, the head on the JR30 can now separate from the battery tube (i.e., appeared to be sealed on my earlier JR10/20). Note these threads are anodized (more on this in a moment), and I found the head unscrewing enough to shut off the light sometimes when applying twisting force to the angle-head. You need to hold the base of the head down when transforming now.  The clip design has changed, as has the attachment point. The new clip attaches in a similar manner to most other clip-on style clips, below the tail threads on the body tube (i.e., the JR10/20 had a distinctive attachment style and location). Note that I recommend you oil this area before trying to get it off – on my JR30 sample, it severely scratched the anodizing when I tried to remove it. Note that this new clip has a raised area before the initial bend, allowing you to still carry it in at least a partial "deep pocket" style way. This clip is no longer reversible in the sense of the original model. But it turns out the body tube is now reversible (i.e., you can reverse the head and tail on body tubes).  Note threads are anodized at both ends of the body tube, maintaining lock-out in either orientation. This presumably explains the change in the head connection noted above. Note that a bezel-up clip orientiation is important if you want to use the light hands-free in angle-mode (e.g., clipped on you), so I am glad to see this functionality.As before, tailcap switch is a forward clicky, with traditional traverse and firm click. Even with the tailstanding flanges, I found it easy to access with any finger or thumb. The head mode-changing switch is an electronic switch, with a good click-feel for this type of switch. Light can tailstand, no sign of wobble on my sample. Note that tailstanding also works when in the angle-head position (i.e., weight distribution is fine). Light has a slightly beveled aluminum bezel, as before. Lights use square-cut screw threads, anodized for lock-out. But threading diameter has change from the JR10/30, and the threads seem smaller and more finely cut now. While the initial impression is that the JR30 doesn't look very different from the early JR10/20, there are a fair number of subtle build differences when you look closely. ER12:    The ER12 has a surprisingly substantial-feel light for a light this size. While not as small as some 1xAA offerings, it is definitely slimmer than most. The light lacks knurling as such, and has instead some fluted ridges on the body and head to help with grip. The body also has a slightly raised white pattern along two sides, which also helps with grip. Styling is a matter of personal preference, but I find all the white side labeling a little peculiar looking.  The head has a pronounced brass heatsink, with traditional triangular-cut screw threads. As with the JR30, there is a reverse polarity ring in the head (i.e., only button-tops can be used). Head has a flat aluminum bezel. Tailcap has a reverse-clicky switch under a labeled metal switch cover (which is smaller than typical). Switch feel is good, and the light can still tailstand. Note there are split ring attachment points in the tail, allowing the light to hang or tailstand stably even when connected to a keychain/caribiner. User Interface JR30: The dual-switch UI is unchanged from the JR10/20, and is similar to that used on some of the Klarus and Fenix lights. Turn the light on by pressing the tailcap forward clicky (press for momentary on, click for locked on). Click and release the side switch to change output levels. In standard General mode, the output will change in the following sequence Lo > Med > Hi > Turbo, in repeating order. The light will memorize the last mode used, and return to it upon re-activation (turn off/on by the tailcap switch). To access the blinking modes, press and hold the side switch for about 1 sec. You now have Strobe > SOS > Beacon modes, in repeating order. Note there is no memory feature for the blinking modes – the light will always come on in the last memorized General constant output mode. ER12: The ER12 is a simple two-output stage light. Turn the light on/off by the reverse clicky in the tail (i.e., press and release to turn on, press to turn off). Fully tighten the head against the body for Hi mode, loosen slightly for Lo mode. And that's it – no blinky modes, hidden or otherwise.  For a more detailed examination of the build and user interface for the two lights, please see my video overview:
Video was recorded in 720p, but YouTube typically defaults to 360p. Once the video is running, you can click on the configuration settings icon and select the higher 480p to 720p options. You can also run full-screen. PWM There is no sign of PWM, at any output level on either light. The lights are either current-controlled, or there is PWM at frequency that is too high for my setup to detect. JR30 Strobe:  As before, strobe on the JR30 is an alternating "tactical" strobe, switching between 15.5 Hz and 6.7 Hz (for ~2 secs at a time each freq, in a repeating loop). JR30 Beacon:  As before, beacon mode is one flash every half a second (i.e., 2 Hz). Again, there are no blinking modes on the ER12.  Beamshots: JR30:   The relative shape of the reflector hasn't changed much from the earlier JR10/20 lights – but the JR30 reflector is smaller overall (due to the narrower body width). There is also less of an opening around the emitter (which was well centered on my JR30 sample – better than on the JR10). The reflector has light texturizing, but it is less pronounced than before (i.e., now a light orange peel = LOP) ER12:   The ER12 has a smaller reflector than the JR30, but overall relative design/shape seems similar. The texturing is even milder (more of a very light orange peel). And now, the white-wall beamshots. All lights are on Max output on Sanyo Eneloop AA NiMH. Lights are about ~0.75 meter from a white wall (with the camera ~1.25 meters back from the wall). Automatic white balance on the camera, to minimize tint differences.                 The beam patterns of both lights are similar, with fairly well-defined center hotspots. While there are a few beam rings visible in the corona, these are not distracting. And don't worry about the beam tints – that is largely just the camera's auto-correction. Testing Method: All my output numbers are relative for my home-made light box setup, a la Quickbeam's flashlightreviews.com method. You can directly compare all my relative output values from different reviews - i.e. an output value of "10" in one graph is the same as "10" in another. All runtimes are done under a cooling fan, except for any extended run Lo/Min modes (i.e. >12 hours) which are done without cooling. I have devised a method for converting my lightbox relative output values (ROV) to estimated Lumens. See my How to convert Selfbuilt's Lightbox values to Lumens thread for more info. Throw/Output Summary Chart: My summary tables are reported in a manner consistent with the ANSI FL-1 standard for flashlight testing. Please seehttp://www.flashlightreview... for a discussion, and a description of all the terms used in these tables.  ANSI FL-1 output specs for the JR30 and ER12 both seemed very consistent with my testing, at all levels. ANSI FL-1 throw measures seemed pretty accurate for the JR30, but my ER12 was less throwy than claimed. Frankly, the ER12 was reasonable given the size of the head and the output level (i.e., about what I would have expected). Output/Runtime Comparison:     Like its predecessors, the JR10 was a top-not performer for the XP-G class. Output/runtime efficiency was excellent at all levels tested, and regulation patterns were typically fully stabilized. Performance was quite comparable the Klarus ST10 overall. The ER12 had lower output/runtime efficiency than the JR30, but still as good as many other lights in this class. Efficiency seemed quite comparable to the Xeno E03 XP-G, for example. Reported runtimes (from the specs) seem at least slightly optimistic, even taking into account ANSI FL-1's lower time to 10% standard (presumably on alkaline in this case). But runtimes are certainly quite reasonable, given the overall efficiency. Potential Issues There is no mention of 3.7V Li-ion support for either light. The JR30 clip is the common clip-on style, and feels slightly less stable to me than its predecessor models, the JR10/20. Note that bezel-up orientation is still permitted now, but by exchanging the head and tail on the body tube instead of reversing the clip. JR30 is longer than typical for this class, due to the angle-head mechanism. Make sure you hold the base of the head when "transforming" the JR30 between straight-through or angle-head – otherwise, you are likely to inadvertently unscrew the head from the body tube, temporarily cutting contact. This is a side effect of the anodized threads at both end of the body tube (required to maintain lock-out and reversibility of the body/clip). On the ER12, overall efficiency is lower than the JR30 (but still acceptable relative to its budget peers). ER12 could be slippery when wet, due to the lack of knurling Preliminary Observations Like the earlier JR10/20, the JR30 is a versatile and well-made light, with top-of-the-line performance. The ER12 balances form and function in a more budget offering, and competes well in that space. The JR30 is generally similar to the earlier JR10/20, but there have been a few build differences. The clip design has changed (more common attachment style now), and you reverse the orientation by swapping the head and tailcaps on the body tube (made possible by the user-removable head - another build change from the JR10/20). The innovative rotating angle-head design is unchanged, and works as before. I find this mechanism to be quite robust, with appropriate stiffness (i.e., won't turn on its own). However, due to the reversive body with anodized threads, you may wind up breaking contact with the battery unless you hold the base of the head when "transforming". But one thing that hasn't changed - circuit performance on the JR30 remains excellent, with output/runtime efficiency on par with (or exceeding) the best current-controlled circuits I've seen in this class.  Similarly, the JR30's dual-switch interface works as before, with comparable feel. I find this UI to be intuitive, and well implemented (i.e. good switch feel, at both ends). The ER12 is obviously intended as a more budget offering. The design and user interface is much simpler than the JR30, but the ER12 still has a quality feel for such a slim-lined model. On the topic of build, I like the general compactness of the ER12. The inclusion of the tail-standing reverse clicky is a nice touch, and switch feel is good despite the small size and metal button cover. I also like the brass heatsink in the head, which contributes to an overall quality feel for the price. I do wish the light had actual knurling though, as I find it can be a bit slippery. Circuit performance has dropped somewhat from the JR30, but the ER12 is still very much in keeping with other lower-cost offerings from other makers (e.g., performance is very similar to the Xeno E03). As an aside, I have recently had the opportunity to physically compare the ER12 to the budget Fenix offering, the E11. These two lights have very similar overall dimensions and specs (i.e., output levels look comparable, but of course I haven't done runtime comparisons yet). But with the exception of knurling/grip, the ER12 appears to be a physically superior build in every other way (i.e. beam quality, brass heatsink, tailstanding, etc.). Ultimately, I find that both of these lights are generally well suited for their intended target audiences. It's nice to see manufacturers paying continued attention to the 1xAA class, as this is where a lot of "mainstream" interests lies. The JR30 and ER12 and welcome additions to this space. ---- Rofis JR30 and ER12 supplied by SBFlashlights.com for review. |
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Anruha (21.06.2014)
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